In my blog last week I talked about my Colorado road trip
with PMQ Thinktankers Richard “Daddio” Ames and Steve “Bodega Highway”
Hitchcock. But if I’m being perfectly
honest, one of the Rocky Mountain highlights of my July journey was the
meatball sandwich I inhaled at Wholly Stromboli in Fort Lupton, site of the
Great Western Pizza Summit on July 15.
This iconic, self-styled “East Coast Eatery” is located in a
103-year-old historic building where locals imbibed illegal prohibition hooch.
Now it houses a cat’s meow basement Speakeasy where former—long-dead—gangsters and
flappers are said to materialize. The beautiful and, dare-I-say, sizzling flappers-waitresses
who worked the July 15 pizza celebration and talkfest in the newly renovated
Speakeasy at Wholly Stromboli were some scary-sweet tomatoes, see! These ladies
were, decidedly, not dead.
Talk about scary-sweet tomatoes—let’s return to the meatball
sandwich of my dreams. Co-owner and U.S. Pizza Team competitor Melissa Rickman (above) is a beautiful New Jersey girl. She moved to a lovely small town in Colorado with
her sharp husband and entrepreneurial partner, Eric, to offer the game–accustomed
westerners of Fort Lupton something unfamiliar. She and her staff cook up classic
urban Italian dishes like New York-style pizza, mouth-watering stromboli and, yes, the best meatball sandwich on the planet.
The recipes are lovingly handed down from Melissa’s mom and
grandmother. On the menu are improvised mashups like WS’s Peanut Butter and
Jelly Stromboli—trust me folks, this sweet, chewy piece of Heaven ain’t just
for kids. In fact, I wouldn’t hesitate to snatch one right out of one of my
grandkid’s sticky hands. The inspiring food at WS, and great bar, have
earned Rick and Melissa’s joint mountain
cred for the best place around to have a good time. And “around” in Colorado is
awful BIG.
But I digress—back to the Wholly Stromboli Meatball Masterpiece. Hand-molded, tender dark globes of fresh ground beef covered in tangy, just-sweet-enough, marinara sauce and gooey mozzarella on toasted Italian bread. Since the day my mom took me to an Italian restaurant in Pensacola, Florida, at age 7, after she sprung me from the Navy hospital following a 3-day stretch for minor eye surgery, I have revered a well-executed meatball sandwich. The kind of ultimate comfort dish I committed to memory that Gulf Coast day is never cheapened with the blunt trailer, “sub,” despite its Naval roots. It is a perfectly balanced mound of red-sauce-immersed steaming meatballs on both planks of a halfed, browned, oven-crusted bread vessel blanketed in bubbling cheese. Sprinkle on some green sprigs of fresh Oregano to sign off the portrait.
That’s exactly what I got at Wholly Stromboli, as you can
see for yourself.
So, in the end, I returned from Colorado with great memories
of wonderful, passionate pizza makers, an incredible East Coast food Oasis operated
with friendly western charm … and those mountains. Yeh, the high, snow-capped ones
that John Denver sang about, sure—but also the 3-inch-round red ones covered in
golden melted cheese. That’s what I’m talkin’ about!
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