Who knew that a Neapolitan-style pizzeria with an old-school
brick wood-fired oven was baking up some of the best pizza in America—and doing
it in small-town Mississippi? Well, a growing number of local folks and
energized fall newcomers visiting the football-crazy Oxford, Mississippi, area,
home of Ole Miss, know. They're savoring some of the best pies west of Naples on sale about 45 minutes away from Oxford in charming Sardis, Mississippi.
Dutch and Rebecca Van Oostendorp, originally from New York, opened
the TriBecca Allie Café eight years ago. Dutch came to Mississippi to pursue
his passion for golf and Rebecca, the brightly smiling woman that would become
his wife. Rebecca, inspiration for the name TriBeccca, was already in the Magnolia State
coaching swimming and working at Ole Miss. Before long, the athletic soulmates,
now living in the pastoral lake community of Sardis, had found a unique way to
channel their shared drive for excellence and East Coast food favorites. They
found it in the comforting, fragrant warmth of homemade bread loaves.
When Dutch realized instructing aspiring golfers in the
laid-back south was not his cup of sweet tea, he and Rebecca went back to their
Northeastern roots—without leaving Mississippi.
The Van Oostendorps built a brick oven in their Sardis home and started a
small business selling their lovingly baked artisan breads to local farmers
markets. But when the ideally situated TriBecca Allie location at 216 South
Main became available in 2007, right next to the Sardis Playhouse theater, the
couple jumped at the opportunity. They erected the only wood-fired brick pizza
oven in Mississippi at the restaurant. Then they piled on grueling working hours
building an award-winning reputation for delicious old-world, thin-crust, authentically
Neapolitan pizza. “At first it was a bit
of a challenge educating our customers that a little char on the bottom of
their pizza didn’t mean it was burned,” Dutch explains. “We like to think we’ve
helped out regular customers become pizza connoisseurs.”
It doesn’t take a pizza expert, however, to fall in love
with menu selections like the Magnola Rosa Insalata, 12 inches of pizza preeminence
topped with mixed greens, pine nuts, house-made balsamic vinegar and Pecorino
Romano cheese. You don’t even have to
love pizza to dig TriBecca, since they offer daily home-cooked specials and
wonderful desserts.
But the pizza here is remarkable, and more than worth a few
words of description. The original Magnolia Rosa pays tribute to the Van Oostendorp’s
adopted home state featuring Mississippi pecans, and TriBecca’s Margherita owes
its tangy “Viva Italia” signature flavor to homemade marinara sauce and fresh,
whole-milk mozzarella. Don’t worry, meat lovers are never short-changed at TriBecca. They stake claim to their own protein plenty with sausage, ham, bacon,
pepperoni, chicken and meatball options. Again, while you might not have to be
a pizza perfectionist to appreciate these hand-crafted pies, the pizza pantheon
has already spoken. The Magnolia Rosa
Insalata brought home culinary glory to Mississippi and the Van Oostendorps when
TriBecca Allie's masterpiece earned second-place in the World Pizza
Championship in Orlando, Florida, in 2010.
So what did I think when I visited the picturesque pizzeria
with attached gelato shop last week? I was deeply moved by the quality of the
pizza and the quality of the professionals who run this family
dream-come-true. To watch Dutch and Rebecca in action, tandem pizza chefs maneuvering
their peel-poised pies into the fiery dark promise of TriBecca’s red brick
oven, is to witness the definition of teamwork. Watching them chat with
customers and staff, and especially, to see these committed partners smile at
each other, is to share a vision of service, respect and pride that is as meaningful
as it is simple. They create this touching taste and dining experience with
time-tested tools and ingredients—at their own pace with standards that are never compromised. And they carry out their life’s passion in a place where enduring
values mean everything. I think a trip to Sardis, Mississippi, and TriBecca Allie Café is simply extraordinary.
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